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Giuseppe Zanotti

Praising Imperfections

 

What if the secret of real charm lay in a certain imperfection that creates a new balance and makes the individual unique? Like nature, intrinsically defective. What is more beautiful than the delicate wings of a butterfly that lives but for a day?

It’s to the woman who knows how to make a virtue of her faults that my new fall/winter collection is dedicated. The woman who uses her looks as a weapon of seduction, not to provoke but to support bold statements. The woman who chooses accessories irrationally, dismissive of colors and proportions, attracted by the creative vibes.

At this juncture, the most enticing challenge for me is to let women be my guide, to get closer to their sensitivities and transformations, their iconoclastic attitude to fashion. To these women I say, ‘Here are the ingredients, my shoes; do what you will. Construct your style around them, use them to express your own world, to enhance your contradictions’.

Chromatic codes are set aside, as colors are uncontainable electric particles, so toes are unrestrained and decorative detailing is irreverent. The inspiration? It comes from Helmut Newton’s black & white portraits of women: proud, magnificent and timeless. And from the atmosphere of Paris in the ’80s, from the shop windows on Place des Victoires where Mugler imagined an alien invasion of wonderful creatures, exploring new territory and staking everything on positive freedom.

I infused these memories with a punk/rock´n´roll twist, creating low ankle boots with zipped turn down cuffs, after the style of the Perfecto biker jacket; rhinestones appear as studs and endow precious cowboy-style boots with amazing sparkle: 6000 tiny crystals meticulously applied by hand, one by one. Contrasts, sharp edges, a distinct “break” between heels and uppers and “wrong” shapes that do, however, capture the reflections of the faceted stones.

It’s a collection that numbers some 800 shoes. At opposite poles, a new classic & chic loafer and a sexy, sky-high shoe that looks like an extension of the foot. Somewhere in the middle lie my most iconic pieces, like the Beatle ankle boots proposed in three surprising colors, flaunting an ultra-feminine look. A real piece of design, the low black heel almost creates a trompe-l’oeil effect and recalls the craftsmanship of old saddleries. With this shoe, the hidden platform, short shape and inward sloping heel redesign the silhouette.

There are also the pink open booties. In this model, romantic embroidery embraces the leg like an oriental tattoo and is as light as a stocking.

But the real cult piece of the collection is a new court shoe: a weapon of seduction that was inspired by a desire to rework a timeless classic. And here, once again, are Newton’s women who, some 30 years later, are still beautiful, contemporary and perfect.

The age of “seasonal” creativity is over. There’s a timeless fusion between classic & modern. The power shimmers in reckless contrasts between silver-gold metallic effects. Golden light and silvery shadows melt together in subtle, sensual interplay. The platform here is also concealed and the heel with its “wrong” inward curve becomes my brilliant signature trait: the jewel and the mirror.

The collection also includes clutch bags like vintage memories from an old blanket box, with a certain irreverence and the Zanotti signature: steel against lace, the shoulder strap is a slinky chain. Soft purses in suede lend brilliance to winter colors.

It would be wrong to consider this merely a collection for the new femme fatale…

 

Giuseppe Zanotti

18 Apr 2012
 
  • Giuseppe Zanotti

    “If a woman can't make her mistakes charming, she is only a female” Oscar Wilde

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